EAST MALAYSIA, SABAH, BORNEO, MOUNT KOTA KINABALU


Mt Kinabalu (4095m) is the tallest mountain in South-East Asia and is situated in the Kinabalu National Park in the province of Sabah in Malaysian Borneo. Thousands of tourists visit Kinabalu National Park each year and most come with the intention of climbing Mt Kinabalu.

Fortunately, Mt Kinabalu is one of the easiest peaks in the world to conquer. It takes just two days and climbers don't need any previous experience at mountain climbing. At sunrise, the views from the Mt Kinabalu's summit at Low's Peak are spectacular, making all the effort worthwhile.

Most climbers take two days to ascend and descend Mt Kinabalu. The eight-kilometre climb generally starts from the the Timpohon Gate near park headquarters (1800m), with an overnight stay at one of the guest houses at Laban Rata (3273m), before pushing on to the summit early next morning. Mt Kinabalu's summit is usually reached in time to view the sunrise, before returning to Laban Rata for breakfast. Climbers then descend the mountain, generally reaching the park headquarters by mid-afternoon.

Anyone with a reasonable level of fitness and the willpower to push through fatigue and discomfort can climb to the summit of Mt Kinabalu. It is achievable and incredibly rewarding.
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KINABALU NATIONAL PARK
Kinabalu National Park, about 90 kilometres from Kota Kinabalu, is one of the world's most significant natural environments. The park is home to thousands of types of flora and fauna that are native to the area, and several hundred that are found only in the park.
 

As such, Kinabalu National Park was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2000, the first in Malaysia. While its tourist trails are well-worn, the majority of the park is an unspoilt paradise for rare flora and fauna.

For those who aren't keen on testing themselves on Mt Kinabalu's slopes, there is still much to enjoy from a visit to the park.

The presence of Mt Kinabalu, the highest mountain in South-East Asia, is one of the contributing factors to the wide variety of animal, bird, insect and plant life found in the park. The terrain ranges from lush, green rainforest at the park's lowest altitudes, while further up the mountain, rhodendron and coniferous forest is prevalent. At the highest altitudes, stunted plant growth and small marsupials survive in a harsh environment.

Orchids and carnivorous pitcher plants are among the park's most famous plants, although they are rare along the park's most worn tourist trails. However, they are all on display in a botanical walk near park headquarters, where visitors can view some of the area's most beautiful flora.

The most famous of the pitcher plants endemic to Kinabalu National Park is Nepenthes raja, a giant pitcher plant whose bell can hold more than three litres of water. There are a number of other species of pitcher plants in the park, and these can be seen just off some of the tracks in the park.

Kinabalu National Park is also home to the world's largest flower, the Rafflesia, which blooms exceptionally rarely and then only for a matter of days.
 

Unlike most of its floral brethren, the Rafflesia emits a foul smell, reminiscent of rotting meat. The stench attracts flies and insects, which the plant then feasts upon.

With a diameter of up to one metres and a potential weight of 10 kilograms, the blooming of the Rafflesia is an event keenly awaited by botanists around the world.

You can read more about Kinabalu National Park at the Sabah Parks website.

ACCOMMODATION
Accommodation in and around Kinabalu National Park takes a little more planning. More than 40,000 people climb the mountain each year, so the park is almost always busy and the availability of accommodation reflects this. The earlier you can book your accommodation, the better.

For this reason, many climbers opt to book their trek through a tour group months before they climb, leaving the tour group to organise all the accommodation and permits required for the trek. However, if you prefer to organise things yourself, it's still possible.

Many climbers choose to depart Kota Kinabalu early on the morning they start the climb, arriving at the park by about 1000hrs. This allows plenty of time to complete the trek to Laban Rata (about four to six hours) before the weather inevitably closes in late in the day.

But, if you choose to stay in or near the park on the night before you climb, there are a number of options, ranging from basic to luxury. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but it will give you an idea of what's available.
   


Kinabalu Pine Resort is located in the foothills near Kundasang, 10 minutes from the national park. Prices for a standard room start from RM100 (twin share) per night. Packages with breakfast and dinner included are also available.
Kinabalu Rose Cabin is also near Kundasang, just a short trip from the park. Similar to the Pine Resort, rooms start from RM70 per night in the normal season.

Many of the other smaller resorts and guesthouses near the national park are operated by tour companies.


Wildlife Mountain Lodge, one of the many guest houses near the park. Wildlife Mountain Lodge is run by Wildlife Expeditions, an excellent and reliable tour company.

There is a range of accommodation inside the park itself, all of which is operated by Sutera Sanctuary Lodges.



Sutera Sanctuary Lodges, which has a head office at the eastern end of Kota Kinabalu's central business district, also runs the bookings for the huts at Laban Rata on Mt Kinabalu.

All climbers must stay overnight at one of the huts at Laban Rata and places are strictly limited. If you're not booking your trip through a tour operator, it's best to get your accommodation at Laban Rata organised before you do anything else, as that will ultimately determine when your climb will take place.

EQUIPMENT
One of the main attractions of climbing Mt Kinabalu is its accessibility. Prospective climbers don't need any previous experience at high altitude, nor do they require any specialised equipment.

However, weather conditions can change rapidly on the mountain. A clear, warm day can suddenly turn into heavy sleeting rain in a matter of minutes. Climbers must be well prepared for any eventuality.

All bedding requirements are provided at Laban Rata, so there's no need to take sleeping bags and the like. Meals can be purchased relatively cheaply at Laban Rata, so climbers need only provide snacks and lunch on the first day (if it's not provided by a tour group).

As such, the trip can be completed comfortably with a small backpack of about 35-40L. A larger pack will be fine, but keep weight to a minimum. After all, it's hard enough climbing the mountain without lugging any unnecessary weight!

EQUIPMENT LIST that every climber should carry:

Clothing
Waterproof jacket
Warm, lightweight jumper (polarfleece or windfleece is ideal)
Warm, lightweight pants (not denim, as it remains cold when wet)
Spare socks and underwear
Beanie/woollen hat
Sturdy woollen or fleece gloves

Miscellaneous
Snacks (chocolate, dried fruit, nuts, jelly beans) for the climb
Water bottles (at least one litre, preferably in small bottles)
Water purification tablets
Sunscreen cream
Small first aid kit
Headache tablets
Bandaids
Antiseptic cream
Crepe bandage
Triangular bandage
Safety pins
Cotton buds
Plastic bags (large black garbage bags are good)
Whistle (in case of emergency in bad weather and visibility)
Camera
Torch (head-mounted is ideal for the night climb to the summit)
Spare batteries

Head-mounted torches are highly recommended.

All your gear should be packed inside waterproof plastic bags in case of rain on the mountain. The last thing you want when you arrive tired and sweaty at Laban Rata is for all your clean, dry clothes to be soaking wet!

Keep in mind that the above list of equipment does not include what you wear on the trail as you set out from park headquarters. What you wear on the trail is really a matter of personal preference. Some climbers prefer to go light and just wear a t-shirt and shorts for the early stages, adding a jumper as they reacher higher altitude. Others prefer to wear pants and a long-sleeved shirt - it's up to you. The climb is strenuous and you will get very warm, simply through your exertions. Layering of clothes is always a good strategy, so you can adjust your clothing depending on the situation.

Suggested walking clothes for early stages (not carried in pack)
Shorts (or lightweight pants)
T-shirt or long-sleeved shirt
Woollen socks
Sturdy shoes with good grip and ankle support - runners or sneakers are far from ideal
Cap or hat to keep the sun off your face
Sunglasses

It's a different story for the early morning trek to the summit. It gets very windy and quite cold at Low's Peak, so you'll need to rug up with the gear you've carried up in your backpack.

Wear your warm socks, pants, shirt, warm jumper and waterproof jacket when you head off. Gloves and beanie are also essential. Carry a litre of water, snacks and a camera in your jacket, or in a very small day pack. You may get quite warm in the early stages of the climb after Laban Rata, but you'll be glad of the protection as you trek above the tree line.

Good, sturdy trail shoes are essential.
Permits and other requirements

All climbers must purchase a climbing permit from the park headquarters before they depart. This will be checked at both Laban Rata and the Sayat-Sayat hut closer to the summit, so there's no way around it! Permits cost RM100 for non-Malay adults (RM40 for children), while Malay adults pay RM30 (RM12 for their children).

PHYSICAL FITNESS
That's the question that every prospective climber needs to ask themselves. There's nothing more disappointing than attempting the climb, only to have to turn back with the peak in sight. As unlikely as it sounds, a few climbers on my trip simply couldn't continue climbing, with less than a kilometre to go to Low's Peak.

To avoid disappointment, it's best to know what you're letting yourself in for.

Climbing Mt Kinabalu is tough - but achievable

As I alluded to on the homepage, there are a number of accounts of the climb that rate it a small step above physical and emotional hell. Likewise, there are others that gloss over the sheer physical effort required to complete the trek. In my experience, neither of these is true.

Here it is in plain, simple language: 
Climbing to the summit of Mt Kinabalu is difficult. For most regular tourists, it is likely to be one of the most physically demanding things you will ever attempt. But, it is eminently achievable with preparation and care once you're up on the mountain.

As you would expect, the trek is predominantly uphill, except for a brief section just after the starting point at Timpohon Gate. The track alternates between steep stairs and regular sections of uneven inclined track. Without the effects of high altitude, the walk would be physically taxing. With the lack of oxygen, climbers become more fatigued far more quickly.

How fit do I need to be?

That said, you don't have to be an elite athlete to complete the climb. If you undertake regular exercise - power walking, jogging, social or competitive sport - on a weekly basis, you're more than likely going to be fit enough to reach the summit.

Age is no barrier - fitness is the only determining factor.

Take it easy at first.

Even if you consider yourself pretty fit, every little bit of preparation will help. In the weeks leading up to the climb, go on a couple of walks where sharp inclines make up a large part of the trail. It'll help your muscles become aware of the efforts required.

If you're looking to climb Kinabalu, but you're a bit concerned about your ability to do so, don't panic. Three months out from the climb, start going for a brisk walk for 45 minutes, at least twice a week. Just around your local neighbourhood will do for a start. Build up to some incline walks in the last six weeks before you depart and you should be fine.

Also, don't attempt the climb with any hint of an injury. Your legs will take enough of a beating ascending and descending the mountain without being compromised by an existing ailment.

How many people make it?

To give you an idea of the attrition rate, more than 95 per cent of the climbers who attempted the summit on my expedition were successful. They ranged from 15-year-old teenagers to enthusiastic tourists in their 70s, and everything in between. There was a small number of climbers who felt they'd achieved enough by reaching Laban Rata - no small feat in itself! But, a handful of climbers attempted the summit walk and were forced to turn back, either pre-empting their own difficulties or suffering greatly from altitude sickness.

Effects of high altitude

A final word of caution on the climb: high altitude can bring even the fittest climber undone. Take it easy from the beginning of the walk. While it might feel easy in the first hour, you'll need those energy reserves later. The same applies for the summit attempt the following morning. Keep it slow and steady and you should be fine.

Some people are affected more than others by altitude sickness. It tends to take effect on the Mt Kinabalu climb in the last couple of kilometres to the summit. All climbers will experience an elevated heart rate, even when resting, and a feeling of breathlessness near the summit. For most, a slight headache will be their only other symptom. It's more than manageable with paracetamol and plenty of water.

You'll need plenty of rests.

However, others can be overcome by nausea. Other than climbing at a slow, steady pace, there is little that can be done to avoid altitude sickness if you're prone to it. The only remedy for altitude sickness is to return to lower altitude - there is no magic pill, unfortunately! Of course, the fitter you are, the more likely you are to be able to cope.

The park also requires that all climbing groups hire a guide to accompany you on your trek up the mountain. The actual cost of hiring a guide varies from RM70-100, depending on the size of your group, but a guide can be responsible for eight people at most.

Finally, each climber must also pay an insurance fee before they embark on the climb.
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DAY 1Before the climb
The day begins at the park headquarters, where all climbers must register for the trek. Up to 100 people can be found milling around the park offices near the gates, where they nervously anticipate the trek ahead.

Climbers are issued with permits after paying for their guide, their insurance and their climbing fee. The permit, which is individually numbered with your day of departure, must be carried on the trail for the duration of the climb.
Once the formalities have been completed, climbers generally opt to take a short minibus ride to the climb's official start, the Timpohon Gate.

It's better to leave as early as you can in the morning, as the weather in the afternoon at the top of the mountain can turn wet and miserable from about 3pm onwards. Our group departed at about 10am and took five hours to reach Laban Rata.

EARLY STAGE

Ironically, the track heads downhill for the first few hundred metres through some magnificent temperate rainforest. Enjoy it, because it's the easiest part of the climb.

A waterfall on the left of the track is a highlight of the first kilometre, but the track soon begins winding upwards. The incline isn't taxing in the first kilometre or so, but there's no doubt that you're heading up the mountain.

One of the most appealing aspects of the trail is the regular appearance of rest huts every kilometre or so. Each of these has a supply of fresh mountain water to refill your drink bottle. The water is quite clean, but if you've got any doubts, it's probably safer to use some water purification tablets to avoid any upsets. The last thing you want is to be climbing the last kilometre to the summit with a dodgy tummy.

Essentially, the first four kilometres of the trail is quite moderate, compared to the second half of the climb. There is plenty of climbing but most of it is up regular sets of wooden or stone stairs built into the trail. If you've got short legs, you might find the rather large steps quite tiring, but in all, it's a relatively pleasant walk.

The rainforest canopy is quite dense, giving walkers plenty of protection from the sun. Still, when the trail does emerge into the open, the sun can be quite fierce on a clear day, so a hat and sun protection cream is recommended.

The most important tip any prospective climber can observe at this point is to take it easy in the trek up to the Layang-Layang power station. The track might seem quite moderate and seasoned trekkers will be tempted to make quick time in the first four kilometres.

However, you're far better off to take it a bit slower and conserve your energy at this point. The climb up to Laban Rata after Layang-Layang is far more taxing and requires some scrambling up some very uneven sections of track. It's not difficult, but it becomes quite tiring after a while.

The altitude starts to have some effect after Layang-Layang as well, so do yourself a favour and walk a little slower than you think you can.

The walk to Layang-Layang can take anything from 90 minutes to three hours, depending on the speed of the walkers in your group. There are two huts at Layang-Layang and a small building. The ever-present fresh water is in plentiful supply as well.

Most climbers opt to take a break here for lunch, resting for about 20 minutes to half an hour. It's at this stage that you'll probably begin to encounter some of the climbers descending from the previous day's expedition.

Most of them seem in good spirits, but obviously weary. So they should be: they've been up since 1.30am and have already been to the summit and back. You'll know the feeling when you're heading down the mountain the next day after your own summit trek.

The section immediately after Layang-Layang is quite a contrast to the rainforest trail that walkers have just completed. The track has quite obviously been carved into the mountain and the terrain changes dramatically. Gone are the tree ferns and rainforest giants, replaced by more scrubby forest and hard, rocky ground with a high clay content. When this ground gets wet, it can be quite slippery, so take care if there's been some rain.

Even fit climbers will appreciate the sharp difference in the difficulty of the walk at this point. The climb is unfailingly steep and in parts, requires climbers to almost pull themselves up part of the track.


It's not actual climbing, as such - rather, the steep incline of the walking track may require some trekkers to use their hands balance on the ground as the track takes some sharp uphill turns.

In June 2006, a new nature resort was being constructed about half a kilometre past Layang-Layang. This accommodation is at the junction of the Timpohon and Mesilau trails. The Mesilau trail is more difficult in parts than the more popular Timpohon track, but it is slightly less steep overall. It's not as well marked or maintained, either.

Mt Kinabalu revealed

Just past the 5km mark, the track finally clears the thicker forest growth of the mountain and emerges on to a rocky plateau for the first time. It's quite an awe-inspiring feeling to be more than 2500m up, even though the view is often obscured by heavy cloud.

Climbers get their first glimpse of the mountain top itself from close quarters. Waterfalls are visible on the surrounding cliff faces as the almost-daily rainfall drains from the summit.

Somewhere near this point, some climbers may begin experiencing the first effects of physical exertion at altitude. It's much harder to gain your breath, and some may start suffering from a slight headache. It tends not to be a sharp pain, but an ever-present dull ache, particularly at your temples and behind your eyes.

If you do get a bit of a headache, make sure you take frequent rests, take some paracetamol or headache tablets and keep drinking plenty of water.

Changing surroundings

As the track elevation approaches 3000m, the alpine terrain and floral growth is now markedly different to the rainforest below. Trees are bare of any leaves, instead carrying large clumps of what looks to be moss. They resemble bearded skeletons, surrounded by quite thick undergrowth, about two or three feet high. It's quite a sight for any walkers not familiar with the alpine environment.

While Kinabalu National Park is renowned for its flora and fauna, the Timpohon track is so well used that there's precious little wildlife to be seen. The best we did on my climb was the biggest earthworm I've ever seen - about 40cm long. Flora is a different story - there are plenty of wildflowers, although there are few orchids to be found beside the track.

We did spot one wild pitcher plant next to the track up near Laban Rata, but that was the highlight for any budding botanists!

The last kilometre up to Laban Rata becomes quite a slog, as the thin air begins to take its toll on most climbers. Legs become more weary and the rocky ground, although not as steep and taxing as the walk immediately after Layang-Layang, still needs some care. Again, the track climbs inevitably upwards to the plateau at 3273m where Laban Rata awaits.

By the time climbers arrive at the guesthouses, they will have been walking for between three and six hours. It might seem a wildly varying estimation of the walk, but climbers of all fitness levels and ability attempt the track.

The climb is hard enough physically in fine weather and good light. Don't allow yourself to be caught in the dark, wet and cold, with 500m to walk before you reach Laban Rata.

Once climbers check in, it's advisable to have a shower as soon as you can in the communal bathrooms. With more than 100 people staying at Laban Rata and its surrounding huts, you can imagine the showers get quite wet and soiled from weary, dirty trekkers.

Accommodation at Laban Rata is dormitory style, with two bunk beds to each room. Guests are given a key to their room, so they can lock their belongings away when they're not in the rooms.

Accommodation at the other huts (Panar Laban, Waras Hut, Gunting Lagadan) is similar, although rooms are not heated. These huts also have communal bathrooms. They're just a short walk from Laban Rata, so once guests check into their rooms, they tend to return to the dining room at Laban Rata to relax.

The dining room at Laban Rata is quite a pleasant place to unwind from the walk. Tea and coffee is available, as well as a range of soft drinks, alcoholic drinks, chocolate and snacks. There's also a 'post office' where trekkers can write and send postcards from high altitude! Drinks and snacks are more expensive than you'd expect to pay elsewhere in Sabah, but keep in mind that all the supplies at Laban Rata have to be carried up by porters.

Dinner is available from the early evening onwards. A range of four or five dishes is served, buffet-style, and it's amazing how much food you can eat after expending so much energy during the day. Malaysian and Western dishes are offered, so everyone will be able to find something to satisfy their hunger.

Second, third and fourth helpings of dinner are not uncommon - in fact, the more you eat, the better to build your energy for the early morning climb to the summit.

Our group chatted with a few other climbers after dinner and drank plenty of the freshly brewed local tea, before heading to bed at about 7pm.

The rooms at Laban Rata are heated, but make sure to turn the heaters off before you go to sleep, or you'll wake in the middle of the night and think you're sleeping in an oven!

DAY 2 - Rise and shine

Climbers choosing to head to the summit will wake at about 1.30am to be ready to head off between 2 and 2.30am. The restaurant at Laban Rata serves a light pre-climb breakfast, but most climbers make do with a hot or cold drink and some nuts or chocolate for a makeshift breakfast.

It will generally be cold and dark outside Laban Rata, so you'll need to be wearing most of your cold weather gear: warm jumper, waterproof jacket and long pants. Make sure you've got a beanie, gloves, a torch, a water bottle, your camera and some more snacks for the climb to the summit.

Once you walk past the huts surrounding Laban Rata, you're back into the stairs. These are actual staircases built above steep rock inclines. They're very basic and can get very slippery when wet, so take it easy.

It's also a good idea to start walking slowly and conserve your energy for the first half-hour or so, until you get warmed up. Remember, you were warm and asleep not long ago and now you're hauling your tired body up a mountain at high altitude when all your mind really wants to do is sleep.

Some climbers will turn back in the first hour, as the combination of fatigue, high altitude and nausea takes its toll. The staircases are surrounded very closely by thick scrub and they can seem quite claustrophobic by torchlight. Take plenty of rests if you need them and keep a steady pace.

It's hard to recall in detail the early parts of the climb to the summit, other than it's unrelentingly steep and the staircases can become quite tiresome. It will take up to an hour and a half before you emerge from the scrub to the open rockface, where the magic of the climb really begins.

After seemingly endless flights of stairs and clambering up the rocky trail, climbers emerge on to a small rocky plateau that marks the end of the treeline and the beginning of the open rockface.

The white rope that accompanies all climbers to Low's Peak begins here with a very steep climb up some potentially treacherous rockfaces. You will need to literally pull yourself up parts of the rockface here, which can be an exhilarating experience.

The views out over the clouds and the valleys below are simply breathtaking. When we climbed, it was a clear night and the clouds stretched as far as the eye could see, broken intermittently with views down to the forest below. It was nearly a full moon and the vista ranks as one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. It makes all the effort worthwhile and it gives weary climbers just a taste of what's to come.

There is no defined trail from this point, as climbers are simply walking, clambering and climbing their way up the sheer sides of Mt Kinabalu. It is vital that you stay next to the ever-present white rope as it marks the safe route up the mountain.

Your mountain guide may not have been much use to you up to this point, but his local experience is invaluable at this point. He'll tell you where to walk, when to rest, and the best way to approach tricky parts of the climb. Listen to what he has to say and your ascent will be much easier.

About two hours after leaving Laban Rata, climbers will reach the Sayat-Sayat checkpoint, where their permits and registration will be checked. This is the last point that climbers can refill their water bottles, so have a good drink and load up on fluid for the last push to the summit.

It's quite an eerie sight, looking up the mountain from Sayat-Sayat. The outline of the mountain looms before you and the trail is marked by several little dots of light, marking climbers making their way to the summit.


While the roped section before Sayat-Sayat can be quite tricky and treacherous in parts, the slog up to the summit is less hair-raising. Essentially, climbers are simply putting one foot in front of the other for the best part of one and half kilometres, using the white rope to pull themselves up the steeper sections.

The gradient can become incredibly steep in parts at this point. The actual terrain is flat underfoot, but it is common to see climber bent almost double at the waist to keep their balance. There are parts when you'll need to grab the rope, which is bolted into the rockface at regular intervals, to help you up short sections.

Hitting the heights

Altitude tends to take its toll here. Your heart will be racing and you'll be continuously breathless. Rests become more and more frequent, until you might only be walking twenty paces before you have to stop again. Don't worry about your slow progress. It's better to make steady progress than wearing yourself out before reaching the summit.

A very small percentage of climbers might experience severe nausea and vomiting at this point. Of those who do, some are able to continue on, while others are forced to return to lower altitude at Sayat-Sayat. Headaches are almost universal at this point - again, they're not acutely painful, but a constant uncomfortable pressure all over your skull.

It will take up to an hour and a half to make the last push from Sayat-Sayat to Low's Peak. It's quite a frustrating section, as each time you crest another ridge, thinking that you must be near the top, another long uphill section presents itself. However, once you see the distinct wide triangle of Low's Peak, you'll know you're almost there.

On top of the world

At this stage, it'll be close to 6am. The sun will be beginning to rise and the sky will lighten. Resist the urge to speed up too much, as you'll suffer for it once you reach the peak.

Even before you reach the top of Low's Peak, the views in all directions are incredible - St John's Peak to the west, the Donkey's Ears to the east and the distinctive South Peak to the south make for incredible scenery.
 

Quite simply, the experience of seeing the sun rise at almost 4100m defies description. It makes all the effort and pain worth it.


Naturally, the peak is crowded with climbers waiting to have their photos taken at the sign marking the summit. Take 20 minutes to regain what breath you can and admire the scenery around you. There are endless picture opportunities for enthusiastic photographers - take as many as you can. Most climbers have something to eat before embarking on the descent to Laban Rata in clear daylight.

THE DESCENT

At first, the downhill walk from Low's Peak is blessed relief to your weary legs. However, as most seasoned trekkers know, it's often harder to walk downhill for long periods than it is to climb uphill and Mt Kinabalu is no exception.

The descent to Laban Rata will take about two hours and it can be quite dangerous in places. Again, take your guide's advice about where to walk and how to approach some of the more dangerous steep sections. You don't want to injure yourself after having completed the hardest part of the climb.

Refill your water bottle at Sayat-Sayat again and continue along the white rope to its end. The series of staircases seems more difficult this time, as they're generally wet and your muscles are quite fatigued from the ascent and descent. Take it slowly and give yourself a rest whenever you need it.

Rest and refuel

Upon reaching Laban Rata between 8am and 9am, several climbers may find themselves feeling quite faint and unwell. It's a combination of severe fatigue, dehydration and depleted energy from your exertions of the morning.

Happily, lots of water and hot tea, a hearty breakfast and a good rest settles most people down within half an hour. While you might not feel like eating much at the restaurant, you'll need to eat as much as you can stomach to prepare for the rest of the trip down the mountain.

It's time to pack up, check out of your accommodation and begin the trip down the summit trail, retracing your steps of the day before.

The descent should take between two and four hours, depending on your level of fatigue. Sore legs, knees and ankles tend to be the limiting factor on the way down, rather than aerobic fatigue.

In fact, our group found itself in more collective pain halfway down the mountain than at any other stage in the trek. The second half of the descent, through the rainforest stairs after Layang-Layang, was the most taxing.

In the end, we literally limped up the last 200 metres to the Timpohon Gate as our legs threatened to give out.

Other groups had less trouble and others had more trouble than we did. It depends on individual fitness and climbing ability as to how sore you'll be at the end. (As a guide, it took three days for Myself to be able to walk properly...My first climb)

Once you reach the Timpohon Gate, you'll take the minibus back to park headquarters, where you will register with park authorities that you've completed the climb.

You can also purchase your certificate for climbing the mountain: a colour version for those who reach Low's Peak, and a black and white version for those who reach Sayat-Sayat. Your guide will inform the park authorities as to your achievement.

Finally, it's off to your next destination. Sore, sleepy and ultimately satisfied, you'll depart Kinabalu National Park with a new respect for its mighty mountain and those who attempt to scale it.
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